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An Adventure Inside Pine Creek Mine

I’ve spent much of my life looking up at the mountains that surround us in this valley. But until last week I had never been inside.

Pine Creek Mine. Bishop. CA

Old abandoned mine cars. Photo: Kendra Atleework

First, a chance meeting (while skiing, of course) between my dad (Robert Atlee) and Jeff Francis, a representative of an up-and-coming hydroelectric project at the long-defunct Pine Creek Mine. He offers a tour. Next, with my dad and his girlfriend the writer Gigi de Jong, I pile into a truck and we drive up and up and up, past Rovana, into the chilly early twilight that falls on Pine Creek.

The caretaker meets us, a tall, friendly man in a headband and dusty work jeans. Hardly 1pm and the sun has disappeared behind the mountains. At almost eight thousand feet, evening is coming on cold. Snow crusts the ground and frosts the roofs of the sheet-metal buildings—those that have survived avalanches past. The last avalanche to visit the mine used the barricade built to protect the buildings as a jump and landed with a vengeance. The buildings that remain contain enormous mountain-moving machines (“snowplows on steroids,” the caretaker says), ore cars that remind me of rides at Disneyland, and an entire abandoned world.

Inside one building, hand weights and cleaning schedules and ore samples and drafting tables lie beneath dust, as if they wait for their owners to walk in and resume calculations on how best to extract tungsten from the mountains. The building is a dim labyrinth, light filtering through dirty windows. Yellow raincoats, brittle from cold and time, dangle inside lockers, their doors gaping open. Two rubber boots lie on the floor. The pipes in the sinks are frozen, and cracked mirrors glint behind decades of grime.

“They left thinking they were coming back,” Jeff Francis told us. Now, the canyon has the feeling of a shed skin, a place abruptly emptied of life.

Evidence of a once-working mine. Photo: Kendra Atleework

Once, four hundred miners pulled tungsten from these mountains, working in three shifts, the Pine Creek Mine churning away twenty-four hours a day. Workers rode trams 2.5 miles into the mountain, then boarded elevators and creaked two thousand feet up. Tungsten is hard to break and hard to melt. You’ll find it wherever the hardest of metals are needed, like the center of a golf club or tools used to cut steel. In the early 1940s the Pine Creek Mine was the country’s largest source of tungsten. Operations stopped in 2000 when the price of ore sank too low, and cabins that once perched on the mountainside and housed the families of miners were hauled down to Rovana.

We climb into a Rhino—beastly tires, fiberglass windshield, metal roof, cold air streaming across us—and the caretaker drives us toward a hole in the mountain. Then we’re inside.

Gigi and I sit in the front seat next to the caretaker and gasp. This is a tunnel blasted through solid rock. At this point I remember I’m claustrophobic. I remember the respirators I saw collecting dust in the abandoned offices—for radon, Jeff had said, which seeps out of granite. We don’t have respirators and we don’t have hardhats, and of course as we rumble deeper I remember a lifetime of my father’s idea of adventure: rocks flying over our heads on a terrifying near-vertical “hike” in Rock Creek; clinging to his back as we tipped over on a snowmobile; dragging myself out of a thousand rock heaps on the alleged “beginner” mountain bike ride up White Mountain Peak. I give my father a nervous look in the backseat of the Rhino, and we drive on, half a mile in.

We’re in total darkness save for our headlights, which bounce across rough, puddled ground, walls and ceiling stained by rusty iron and glittering with quartz. We pass a discarded box labeled EXPLOSIVES. Four-foot icicles dangle from the ceiling like witch fingers and crash onto the roof of the Rhino as we pass. Water drips in our faces. The sides of the Rhino are open to the chill tunnel air.

Exploring inside the mine. Photo: Kendra Atleework

From the outside the mountain looks like a solid mass. This tunnel’s been here for decades and in that time has seen few rock falls. Inside such a tunnel is a safe place to be, Jeff tells us, during an earthquake. Yet the mountain is not solid at all. It’s full of water.

Water trickles through fissures in stone, coaxing the color out of iron. Metal plugs on the walls of the tunnel mark the places where underground springs were stopped up, tamped down. Still, water weeps from the ceiling, sprinkling our hats and jackets and pooling at our feet as we climb from the Rhino into this strange world.

From a giant chute above our heads, ore once fell. Imagine stone crashing two thousand feet through darkness. The peak hid violence, noise, the organized chaos necessary to drive modern lives. Now it’s dark inside and silent as it was before tungsten became a thing of value, the mountain regaining an old equilibrium, with a few more scars.

I can almost imagine the air as it once was here—smelling of dynamite, musty raincoats, exhaust, and oil. Now there’s only the smell of cold stone, a mineral staleness. I stare into the dark, the light at the end of the tunnel invisible now. I am numb-footed in my big brown parka and waterproof boots, while the caretaker wears only a green work shirt. His boots look soaked through. He does not seem cold. He decided to leave his life in the city and come here to live among the footprints of four hundred workers and their families, the ghosts of buildings flattened by avalanche, the layers of dust coating reading glasses and typewriters and plastic water bottles and over-exposed Polaroids and yellowed maps of the belly of the mountain.

How does he pass the time?

He listens, he tells me. Watches the sun cross the narrow channel above the canyon. Enjoys the scant hours of day.

A long, dark tunnel lit by the headlights of the Rhino. Photo: Kendra Atleework

Before we leave the tunnel the caretaker turns off the Rhino’s headlights and we all kill our headlamps and stand a few moments in complete darkness and listen to the trickle of water through the body of the mountain and it isn’t scary, actually. It feels to me like the lights come on too soon. Too soon we’re driving out the way we came, the wind in our faces, a few more icicles crashing over our heads. And then there’s the orb of daylight and fresh air, and we’re out of the shelter of the mountain and the valley glows beneath us, still bright in the winter afternoon.

When I was a child I didn’t know people passed their days inside a mountain I could see from my bedroom window. I didn’t know that water flows through stone that looks solid. I didn’t know there was such a vocation as caretaker of abandoned mines, tender of tunnels no longer traveled, keeper of a left-behind place. But I like the idea of a quiet presence looking over these canyons and this valley, be it the mountains themselves or the people who live among them, tracking the sun on its short December journey, listening to water in secret places flow.

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4 hours ago

We appreciate our local businesses as they are working to #KeepBishopSafe. The number of positive COVID-19 cases in Inyo County continue to climb, so we ask you to please do your part to keep our community safe as well!! Thank you. ❤️ ... See MoreSee Less

We appreciate our local businesses as they are working to #KeepBishopSafe. The number of positive COVID-19 cases in Inyo County continue to climb, so we ask you to please do your part to keep our community safe as well!! Thank you. ❤️

Comment on Facebook We appreciate our ...

I'm going to keep telling you Bishop just how much I miss you. 💜💜💜😷🐈

Stay safe! I wan to visit this fall!

Where is the truck located?

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2 days ago

It’s official...WE LOVE THE FAIR, BUT WE LOVE YOU MORE.

Sad news to our friends and families and riders and destruction derby drivers: The Tri County Fair has officially been cancelled for 2020 as the coronavirus pandemic rages on..... Fortunately, it looks like we are planning a major comeback in 2021 and for many years to come.
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It’s official...

Comment on Facebook WE LOVE THE FAIR, ...

Darn, I was thinking about going there for your fair since ours was cancelled here.😏

Ok, but it will be missed!

. Not in Bollings it is going on this week

Sad, but necessary..

This year sucks!!

It will be back bigger and better, than ever. Stay well. <3

It's the Dems again!

Do sorry,. next year.

What ! Ran out of jobs !

Me too.

A couple more months of stuff like this and there will be Prime real estate in Bishop selling cheap!

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5 days ago

Heading into the weekend dreaming of backcountry lakes... which is your favorite?
#DreamNowVisitLater #KeepBishopSafe
Thank you Instagram user @kimonlhi for this spectacular shot!!
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Heading into the weekend dreaming of backcountry lakes... which is your favorite? 
#DreamNowVisitLater #KeepBishopSafe
Thank you Instagram user @kimonlhi for this spectacular shot!!

Comment on Facebook Heading into the ...

Would have guessed Split Mtn, but have only flown over these mountains twice.

Too many to choose, the higher and more remote the better

Saddle Bag Lake. ❤️

Blue lake! The best, at least I know of~!!!

I need a good-looking tour guide(male) to show me around on my next visit. 😉🐈😷

So beautiful. I miss being up there.

Mt. Aggasisz? I probably butchered that spelling.

Blue Lake

Blue lake❣

Sabrina

Dorothy Lake

Horton Lake

Dorothy and Mildred

Beautiful

I'm guessing the trail to Bishop Pass at Bishop Lakes. :)

Beautiful

Upper Lamarck

Beautiful

That’s beautiful.

Nice 👍

Ruwau Lake, Tyee Lakes, upper Lamark lake, Blue lake, & Little Lakes Valley.

Terra Rankin

Lake.

Any part of Bishop is fine, I JUST WANT TO BE THERE TO ENJOY THIS BEAUTIFUL PLACE! 😀❤️😄💙

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6 days ago

Our friends at Eastern Sierra Interpretive Association welcome everyone to stop by for in-person visitor service plus a great selection of area maps, books and more. They do a great job of helping our guests recreate responsibly!Thanks ESIA for providing helpful information and advice to visitors on responsible recreation in our region! ... See MoreSee Less

Our friends at Eastern Sierra Interpretive Association welcome everyone to stop by for in-person visitor service plus a great selection of area maps, books and more.  They do a great job of helping our guests recreate responsibly!

1 week ago

Community: a feeling of fellowship with others, as a result of sharing common attitudes, interests, and goals (Oxford Dictionary)
We are grateful to our COMMUNITY locally and afar, for loving and supporting BISHOP and Inyo County. ❤️

Here is a little glimpse of how our community has pulled together over the past few months:
www.bishopvisitor.com/eastern-sierra-covid-stories/
... See MoreSee Less

Community: a feeling of fellowship with others, as a result of sharing common attitudes, interests, and goals (Oxford Dictionary)
We are grateful to our COMMUNITY locally and afar, for loving and supporting BISHOP and Inyo County.  ❤️

Here is a little glimpse of how our community has pulled together over the past few months:
https://www.bishopvisitor.com/eastern-sierra-covid-stories/

Comment on Facebook Community: a feeling...

The community stories are wonderful

The big deal when I was growing up was going to the Tri-County Fair rodeo, taking in a movie, and having dinner...all over Labor Day. Then there were the trips from Mammoth to Bishop to go to the grocery store, topped off by a stop at Schatz for sandwiches and to buy bread. What a wonderful place!!!

Used to watch movies at this theater back in the early 70's. Great memories wonderful town. I visit just about every year and enjoy the old school vibe. My parents started AYSO soccer in Bishop. I used to bicycle down the street as a kid, drop a fishing line and pull out lots of trout.

No Bishop does not need a Walmart mart or another supposed better grocery store. We do not have the people to work them. Plus we have new buildings that weren't supposed to be built and a whole mess of empty buildings. We want to keep it a small town feel.

I was sorry to hear that the JC Penny store closed there. I used to work there when I lived in Cali. I had the most wonderful coworkers and the best boss ever!!! Bishop will live on in my heart forever.

Remember Jill Kenmont👍👍

Great little town Bishop is, leave it alone. My mom graduated from Bishop High school, we went to Bishop many years for Christmas with my Grandparents

I was born in Bishop and moved out around 1990. I've moved all over California since then, and no matter where I moved to I always wanted to go back. Some day... Maybe when my kids are all grown and out of the house I'll take my wife and dogs and move back...

Great town. can't wait to come visit when things calm down. Missed Mule days and our family reunion at the lodge but we will be back

Looking forward to visiting as soon and we can! We love Bishop!

Love Bishop! Just passed thru Monday on the way back from Yosemite!

Bishop is in one of the most beautiful settings on Earth. The eastern Sierra and the Owens Valley will persevere.

I love that Bishop is a smaller town. It part id it s charm for visitors. Needed some items last trip , found them in town and what friendly people !! And you should fit your town , not always for the town to fit you.

3 yrs ago we just started driving , landed in Bishop, stayed several days, just loved that trip, no fish but who cares .... 😍🎣🚗💨💨

best town in California

We believe in Bishop. Stay well. <3

Between 1934 and 1939, I spent some Saturday afternoons watching movies at the theatre in Bishop - think the Hollands owned it then - one of the Holland boys was in my elementary school grade. Best wishes to all.

Bishop is fine the way it is.

Please don't change! I love you the way you are!!

We would like to keep it that way, but there are a lot of people coming into the area now who are leaving their trash on the ground & putting graffiti on any available surface. Do that S... at home, not in our town.

You have no idea how badly I need to visit You Bishop.

Saw it has been 100 degrees up there.

Play my brother Danny scene Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory at that theater years and years ago

Lived here in the early 80’s

Soon as possible.

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